What is Wassailing?
“On the eve of the Epiphany, the farmer, attended by his workmen, with a large pitcher of cyder, goes to the orchard, and there, encircling one of the best bearing trees, they drink the following toast there several times;
Here's to thee, old apple-tree,
Whence thou may'st bud, and whence thou may'st blow
And whence thou may'st bear apples enow
Hats full!— caps full!
Bushel—bushel—sacks full!
And my pockets full too!
Huzza! - This done, they return to the house.”
The Gentleman's Magazine. 1791. v61, Pt 1
Although this account of apple tree wassailing dates from the late eighteenth century, apple wassailing is first mentioned at Fordwich, Kent in 1585 -- by which time it was already a ritual undertaken by groups of men who went between orchards performing the rite for a reward.
That Wassailing takes place on old twelfth night (17 January) hints at its undoubted ancient lineage as the Gregorian calendar was not adopted in England until 1752. This meant that twelfth night shifted back to 6 January to align the calendar with the solar year, Even so, traditionalists retained 17 January as the 'true' day relevant to wassailing.
Whilst the purpose of apple tree wassailing is the same in all areas where it is performed, there are local variations to the basic performance.